Cairo Correspondences

An Egyptian soldier on his way to Darfur

Egypt plays a pivotal role in Darfur crisis; it is crystallized in the attempt of Egypt to solve the crisis peacefully and settle the differences between the parties in conflict so as to stop bloodshed and prevent the foreign interference in the Sudanese affairs, thus, maintaing the unity of Sudan.

When I first met A. Sultan, it was difficult to get him to talk about anything other than his longing for a girlfriend. He was like a child wanting a toy, so strong was his belief that once he had one, he would be happier.

He told me he was going to train for Darfur when I first met him, but it never quite seemed real. This skinny kid with glasses? Someone I partied with? Someone who was too nice to correct my Arabic?

His attempts at womanizing annoyed me, but I still wanted to talk to him. He promised to give me an interview before he left, and this is it.

A. was suddenly sincere and insightful, but he retained that childish quality that made me simultaneously irritated by and reluctant to shatter his faith in fictional things.

How did you end up joining the miltary?

Thousands of thousands of students when they finish they should go to do their national service. The military, they choose. If they need translators, they take all the translators. Well this year, unfortunately, they need translators. They need A LOT of translators. They need them in the military hotels, in the military information center in Nasr City, and, of course, for the UN. They send them with the UN troops. I’ll be a translator with the peacekeepers.

They took this year like 50 translators…to Darfur this year…there will be in the streets and in the UN bases.

I’ll take 35 days training with the Egyptian military, which is basic, and I’ll take another 45 days training with the UN in Swiss.

Do you know what you will learn in the training?

In the Egyptian training they teach you like how to wake up early, how to tie your clothes, how respect your bosses. If I’ll be in the streets with the UN with the peacekeepers, of course they’re going to teach me how to use guns, because I have to to protect myself.  In the Egyptian training they teach us how to use guns like three times. They don’t teach you how to use guns properly.

What was the intiation like? Did they make you sign oaths?

Of course we sign. And they show us it’s like a choice, you can choose to be, but actually no, you have to. And you have to go any-fucking-where they say, and that’s why I’m mad at them.

So they were somewhat deceptive?

Well, you can not really judge the military. You cannot really say something about it, because many, many people have a view about it. When you go there you find something totally different, and then you go outside and tell your friend about the military: “I saw that.”

Do you remember how you first found out you were going?

It was terrible because we were around 4,000, 4,000 people in this thing! Imagine like 4,000 and a guy came up with a microphone and he announced the year, and he said “87…all don’t have to go.”

And everyone was really happy— imagine 4,000 shouting— and then he said “but the translators English, French, Hebrew, and Russian…”

Around 250 to get in the military this year from the Haram military base. It was really sad to see you’re all going 4,000, and then only 250, and you’re one of them. And all the people left.

Who did you first tell that you were going to have to go?

My father, he called me. He showed me that he’s happy, but he’s not. And they told us in the same day to come over next week. And they took our IDs and like every half an hour a soldier came and let some people go, make some people leave, until we became like 100. And then he told me this 100 will go to Darfur. So I was really upset.

What information did you get about Darfur before you knew you were going to go?

Nothing…what they say in the news that’s all. Really they don’t tell us what’s happening here and why it’s the problem. You just show up. . of course in the training they’re going to tell us what is the situation there.

It’s not that really bad because some countries it’s a lot worse. In like Israel, women have to go to the military. All the people they train them in guns and fighting, not like here. Here they teach you the thing that you will do in the year, like you could be a translator in the hotel.

How will you communicate with people at home while you’re there?

I will have some holidays, of course. I’ll have six months here ‘cause it’s a year so I’ll spend six months in Darfur.

Do they let you bring your cell phone or anything?

Nothing. In the training, nothing. We don’t have to bring anything, even MP3 player. Well, after that, maybe you could have MP3 player after the 45 days.

What is your opinion on Egypt having miltary actions in other countries?

What I feel toward that? I don’t think it’s a good idea to send some people to a dangerous place. You can send the soldiers, you don’t have to send the people who just graduated: the translators, the doctors. They didn’t see anything, they didn’t have any experience in life. I just graduated and I might die there. So that’s it? That’s my life?…I just graduated so I need to see the world. I need to work, I need to have a family. They send soldiers because they accepted to be soldiers from the beginning, but I didn’t accept to be a soldier.

Do you know anyone who’s gone to Darfur?

No and that’s the thing that makes me scared, is that no one has really lived this experience. So I have to live it in my own.

The troops are expected to arrive by March from Egypt, South Africa, Senegal and Bangladesh, UNAMID said, adding that further troops will arrive from Nepal, Nigeria, Egypt and Ethiopia later in the year.

Unlike so many other soliders though, his story does have a happy ending. The week A. went to the army base to begin training, he was dismissed without explanation. He didn’t ask for one.

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(A commercial from the channel that plays Indian movies with Arabic subtitles, Zee Aflam.)

Indian movies are really popular in Egypt, something I never would have guessed before I arrived!

Blogger Manisha writes of the Indian actor Amiabh Bachhan:

In our first month in Cairo, we would be very amused by cries of Hindi? India? Amitabh Bachhan? Vendors, passer-byes & shopkeepers, would want to know if we knew Amiabh Bachhan! I had guys in Khan recounting Hindi movies which I had probably seen when I was 10 or 11….

that’s him!

Hisham Abbas also sang a duet with an Indian pop singer. The all-out-Bollywood video was extremely popular here and, I’ve heard, in India.

In the opinion of an Egyptian language interpreter, these are the differences between Egyptian and Indian movies:

* Egyptian: all our Egyptian movies have become nothing more than silly and ridiculous comic ones, sexually oriented, with disappointedly imitated action, or vice-spreading ones. All these types of film contain at least one female actor who behaves in a very vulgar way.

*Indian: these are the professionals in making multi-plot movies; moreover, they engage multiple feelings and emotions that emerge within the same movie, i.e., you may cry, guffaw, dance, sing, and fall in love with the girl in the seat next to you. “

Going back to the commericial: what’s fascinating to me is how the story of a place sticks a little harder than the reality of it.

India has all the pollution, poverty, and crazy driving that Egypt does, but the fact that they make better movies gives it the image of an exotic escape.

The story of Egypt as some kind of mix between Disney’s Aladdin, sunny tourism posters, and dire news warnings of “militant jihadists” seems to stick pretty hard to some of my relatives too, despite what I tell them. 

Then there’s the Egyptian dream that immigrating to America is a panacea for all economic and social woes. You can list of statistics of homelessness in the U.S. or inform people that there are places without running water, but the idea is somehow bigger!

Anyway, watching Zee Aflam is fun because I can piece together what is going on between the predictable plots, random English sentences, and readable Arabic words from the subtitles. 

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Egypt's position in the Gaza war

Involvement in news from Palestine is inescapable, but it’s amazing how much less abstract it seems from Egypt than it did from the U.S. There’s the personal connections, and also the much more graphic news.

So far the Israeli army killed 205 children, and around 600 people, mostly civilians(5) . While the U.S. media shows flag covered coffins, the cover of every newspaper here printed pictures of dead children from Gaza each day since the war began. The television coverage shows bomb victims being wheeled to hospitals with their limbs in tatters.

Then a dear friend returned from visiting her family in Bethlehem the day after Israel started bombing Gaza. She said that this time, as with any time Israel attacks Gaza, the West Bank completely shut down.

It wasn’t like a U.S. protest with some people chanting and waving signs— the shops were closed, transportation was not working, and everyone was demonstrating near the wall. Palestinian protestors by the wall threw rocks while soldiers from the Israeli army guarded the other side.

When I asked her if people in Palestine had much to say about Egypt’s role in the war, she answered emphatically “yes.”

While her uncle said Egypt should worry about its own problems first, most people were enraged at Egypt for keeping the Rafah border closed.

“They just think that Egypt is in it for the foreign aid from America,” she said. (Egypt is the second-largest recipient of USAID, behind only Israel.)

In fact, this is the sentiment toward Mubarak’s crew throughout the Arab countries— including Egypt. The Egyptian police arrested, beat, and detained protestors (7) but they were still out in the tens of thousands throughout the country.

Marina Tamer, another friend, was trapped in Ain Shams University during a demonstration to get the government to open the Rafah border. She estimates there were 1,000 people protesting, and said there were visibly armed police surrounding the university and barricading anyone from coming or going. Some of the protestors also had guns.

In Syria last week, protestors outside the Egyptian embassy accused Egypt of being a puppet of the West and demanded the government send aid and open the border (2).

While the English language press is not comprehensive on this issue, The Wall Street Journal briefly mentioned the dilemma facing Egypt’s “moderate” (i.e.: US-backed) government. WSJ guesses that Palestinians who came into Egypt may strengthen parites opposed to Mubarak’s regime, particularly the outlawed Muslim Brotherhood.

Then Egyptian Foreign Minister Ahmed Aboul Ghei said that Hamas brought it upon themselves with the rockets, as Israel was seeking an excuse to bomb the territory. Meanwhile, Mubarak proposed a ceasefire agreement that Condoleezza Rice expressed approval for at a United Nations meeting (8). The conditions of the truce seem obvious— stop arms smuggling between Egypt and Gaza, allow humanitarian aid into Gaza, and get international troops to monitor the territory.

Right now Israel and Hamas representatives agreed on allowing a three hour ceasefire everyday to allow humanitarian aid into Gaza. During this time, Hamas said they will not fire any rockets. (10)

What seems strange is the focus on disarming Hamas, whose rockets have killed less 20 people, and not on disarming the Israeli army, who has killed 600 in this war and bombed schools and hospitals (9). It’s fascinating to observe the legitimization of violence by rich countries who have “soliders” and “armies” while the same actions are condemned if carried out by “terrorists” or “militants.”

For more on the extent of Egyptian protests in response to the ongoing Gaza war: http://www.thedailynewsegypt.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=18753

(1) http://news.antiwar.com/2008/12/28/egyptian-border-guards-open-fire-on-fleeing-gazans/

(2) http://www.jpost.com/servlet/Satellite?cid=1230111680086&pagename=JPost%2FJPArticle%2FShowFull

(3) http://online.wsj.com/article/SB123110233497651959.html?mod=googlenews_wsj

(4) http://www.digitaljournal.com/article/264341

(5) http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/7814490.stm

(6)http://www.mcclatchydc.com/251/story/58897.html

(7) http://www.alertnet.org/thenews/newsdesk/L2219792.htm

(8) http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/middleeast/israel/4144988/Condoleezza-Rice-backs-Egyptian-Gaza-ceasefire-plan-at-UN-meeting.html

(9) http://www.baltimoresun.com/news/world/bal-te.gaza07jan07,0,6923769.story

(10) http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/7815929.stm

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Watching you peel off your. . .sweatshirt

The other day I was on the train, in the car where only women are allowed, and I took off my sweatshirt. The woman standing in front of me said in Arabic, approximately, “By the way you must not do that outside of here.” Meaning, you know, where men could see me.

Actually, I’ve always thought there was something oddly erotic about watching people take off their sweatshirts but, until now, I also thought I was the only one.

Oh Egypt.

Really the only part that bothers me about the stricter standards Egyptian culture has for hiding sexuality is that women must be the sole upholders of this. For example, a man at the tamaya (falafel) shop changed his pants in full view of everyone waiting for their orders. Frankly, it was quite shocking and intimidating. After being harassed everyday for a month or so, you come to be scared of strange men doing things like taking off their pants. Then it was enraging because if I had done the same thing here I probably would have been shot.

However, my situation isn’t that bad compared to the restrictions placed on Egyptian women so that they maintain their virginity. No dancing in public/in discos, no being out at night, no being unsupervised in any situation that could be construed as them being alone with men, etc. But if their brothers mess around…mafeesh mushkayla.

It’s the same double standard as in American culture, but back home women have to do a bit more than take their sweatshirts off in front of men to be considered a slut.

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Hello again

I’m reviving this blog with the goal of relaying what I am learning about Egypt to everyone interested.  Tracking my experience can be a way to learn about the country outside of academic writing or shallow and impersonal news coverage.  I aim to make my writing personal but accurate.  However, I make no claim to be “unbiased” in the tradition of newspaper journalism.  There are plenty of great English blogs by Egyptians, and I will post some of these as well.

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Egyptian classic!

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